mega jul rappel

A real win as it eliminates the need for a personal prussic as a back-up, providing … Edelrid Micro Jul Belay Device. Lastly, it does take practice to smoothly lead belay using a Mega Jul. We found this to work in our testing, but it is not without downside. EDELRID Mega Jul Belay Device 4.6 out of 5 stars 152 $39.95 $ 39. [Photo] Andrew Councell. We were initially impressed with the promise of the Edelrid Mega Jul. 00. The Mega Jul is Edelrid's most versatile belay and rappel device, made of solid stainless steel for durability. The configuration differs for belaying one climber vs. two, so use caution to make sure you have it set up properly. Material on GearLab is copyrighted. El principio se consigue haciendo que la cuerda recorra doblando y fregando contra mosquetones y el dispositivo Asegurador-Descensor. Ultimately though, the performance of the passive braking assistance is a significant compromise from active assisted locking devices. It is the precursor to the Edelrid Giga Jul, which outperforms it in nearly every way, except for price and weight. If you use (and rappel with) half or twin ropes frequently that are 8mm or under, you will be happier using the Micro Jul over the Mega Jul. EDELRID Jul 2 Belay Device 4.8 out of 5 stars 85 $35.95 $ 35. The Mega Jul from Edelrid is considered a "passive" assisted braking belay device. BUY Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device. At 2.3 oz the Edelrid Mega Jul is the fourth lightest belay device tested and the lightest assisted braking device. Switch it around into assisted braking mode, and you will have to apply upward pressure on the green thumb loop for rope to feed through. The Edelrid Mega Jul rigged for a top rope or lead belay. This variation of this type of device strikes one of the best balances between function, ease-of-use, and lightweight for many types of all around climbers. 1-800-953-5499 (US and Canada) The Edelrid Mega July is a belaying descending device made of stainless steel investment castings for a long life. The Mega Jul has a learning curve, as with any other belay device, but after a few times belaying on it, most folks are proficient. The Mega Jul for belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable for abseiling; High braking performance assists the belayer with leader falls; Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner; Suitable for 7.8 - … The newest member of the family is the Giga Jul, which we think is among the very best options for multi-pitch climbing, and corrects much of the friction-related issues of this device. $70.95. BUY Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Device. For the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser. 95-$49.00 $ 49. Edelrid Sport Climbing including Belay & Rappel Devices by Edelrid. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. It's also very carabiner dependent, and we noticed a 35% difference between the best and worst biners we tried—the Petzl Attache performed the best and is what we used in the official test. The Mega Jul loaded for lead belay or toprope belay. This website requires cookies to provide all of its features. The most versatile ever belay device. Easily belay either Here's the text from the manual: "8. Its wire attachment loop is on the large side, but how important is that really? For more information on what data is contained in the cookies, please see our Privacy Policy page. The above diagram is from the Edelrid Mega Jul manual (downloaded 2/1/2016), describing how to belay a second climber from an anchor. I used the Mega Jul in a climbing self-rescue course and it was excellent. The Mega Jul is a versatile device that provides passive assisted braking, double strand rappelling, and it has auto-block capabilities (though you'll hurt your elbows using it in that mode). Lo recomendamos ampliamente. The Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device. Its smaller cousin is the Edelrid Micro Jul for skinny twin and half ropes from 6.9 to 8.0 mm. During rappels face the green thumb loop away from you and the Mega Jul claims a unique ability to auto-lock. $39.95. Mega Jul Belay Kit and other great Edelrid climbing gear for trad, sport, alpine, and mountaineering at BackcountryGear.com Reproduction without permission is prohibited. Although the Mega Jul works fine belaying and lowering a climber on ropes with a diameter of 7.8, you will find the friction (or lack thereof) to be a bit rough on your hands while rappelling. You can rappel with the Mega Jul in various ways. The Mega Jul… Like other plaquette devices, this is done by clipping the ear to the anchor and loading … Mega Jul and other great Edelrid climbing gear for trad, sport, alpine, and mountaineering at BackcountryGear.com Edelrid Mega Jul | Belay and Rappel Devices | BackcountryGear.com JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. Out of all the assisted-braking belay devices and carabiners, Edelrid's Mega Jul Belay Kit is probably the most practical option for multi-pitches and alpine approaches, especially if there are rappels involved. Feeding rope in this position requires upward pressure on the thumb loop that can quickly fatigue your arm/shoulder. 95. It had the greatest resistance by far under the parameters of our test. Search our entire catalog with a simple click! This assistance is stronger in most applications than a classic tube but not as powerful as the active assisted braking devices in our review. The securing device must be attached at the fixed point by means of the attachment (Fig. Compared to pretty much every other passive assist braking device, our testers found the Mega Jul's catch to be more confidence inspiring and stronger at locking off when a climber is already hanging on the rope. The biggest problem we have with the Mega Jul is the friction it creates in auto-block mode. The Mega Jul is versatile and robust belay/rappel device. Getting this correct is a bit tricky. Robust stainless steel construction. In addition to the brake-assist ("thumb mode") using the thumb hook, the Mega Jul can also be oriented in auto-block or "guide mode" for belaying climbers from above. Weighing in at 2.3 oz, it's also light and affordable. For belaying a leader or bringing up … GearLab is reader-supported. The Mega Jul is very affordable for a belay device with auto-block and assisted braking modes. The Edelrid Mega July Sport is the sports version of the award-winning mega Juls, with optimized for sport climbing geometry for friendly backup even in thick ropes. Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear, The jack of all trades in belay devices, yet master of none. Qualified orders eligible for FREE S&H and FREE RETURNS. becoming increasingly common, is to rappel on a GriGri or one of the new locking (yet non-mechanized) devices such as a Mammut Smart or the Edelrid Mega Jul. It's just not as smooth or as strong. It feels identical to rappelling with my Pivot. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. The Mega Jul set up in our tests of belaying a second climber from an anchor (Auto-Block). Edelrid’s new Giga Jul looks deceptively like your standard two-tube device. Most assisted-braking devices only allow one strand of the climbing rope, and out of the rest this Mega Jul is one of the lightest and most compact. El asegurador / descensor más versátil de Edelrid. … It provides a very effective assisted braking function while lead belaying, can be used in guide mode to belay one or two seconds (with an autoblock function that locks up automatically in the event they weight the rope,) and can be used to rappel in either an assisted … The device clamps down on the rope to assist with braking, and feeds very smoothly when belaying a leader. Super lightweight, assisted braking, guide mode belay option, Stainless Steel vs Aluminum construction, and very affordable pricing make this thing a winner. Not much. The Mega Jul is designed for ropes between 7.8 and 10.5 mm in diameter. When securing a top rope climber with a single rope, the carabiner must be attached to the rope loop and through the device (Fig. JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. How can we improve GearLab? In standard mode, with the green loop facing towards you, it operates like any other tube. Edelrid Mega Jul Our most versatile belay and abseil device made of solid stainless steel for durability. You help support OutdoorGearLab's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners. Got feedback? Edelrid Belay & Rappel Devices Find Your Park ; Road Trip ... Edelrid Mega Jul Belay Kit. Good braking performance, yet you can pay out rope fast to keep up with the leader by holding the device open with your thumb. 541-485-4007 (International) Check great and honest reviews! Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. All of these devices have the built-in feature of locking up on a rappel when the climber isn’t actually releasing them to initiate the descent. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Todos los dispositivos funciona con fricción, para conseguir que frene las caídas o que el rápel sea controlado. The performance of the Mega Jul is highly dependent on the carabiner used. … Securing a top rope climber from a fixed point (e. g. a station): One or two top rope climbers may be secured independently (be sure not to confuse the ropes!). Fabric/Material: Stainless Steel, Weight: 2.3, Application: Multi-Pitch Routes, Sport Climbing, Belay Type: Manual Catch, Climbing Hardware Type: Belay & Rappel, Rope Capacity: 7.8 - 10.5 mm, The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Let us know! How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing, Auto-block (resistance belaying a second), the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. In spite of its small size, the Mega Jul is a very versatile device. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Lightweight, small, great value, strong braking assistance, Terrible auto-block friction, rappelling/lowering can be hard on the shoulders. Depending on how you orient the Mega Jul it can operate as a standard or assisted locking device while rappelling. Versatile, award-winning belay/rappel device. The most versatile ever belay device. 8a). - … Find all your Belay & Rappel Devices on US-Parks.com. Edelrid Jul 2 Belay Kit. Edelrid Mega Jul | $29.95 edelrid.de.com ★★★★. We're intrigued by the future potential of passive assisted braking devices but aren't yet willing to recommend this one over the competition we saw. ... As a standard tube, the Giga Jul can rappel with single and twin ropes smoother, and you can clip the Giga Jul to anchors for a more-secure top rope belay on multi-pitches. For the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser. A clever slot in the side of the tube body causes the rope to tightly pinch between the device and belay carabiner to provide extra braking strength. All trademarks property of their respective owners Giga Jul Mega Jul Sport Mega Jul Micro Jul JUL² Guide Mode Additional Eyelet Single Rope Belay Twin/Half Rope Belay Rope Diameter 7.1 – 10.0 mm 7.9 – 11.0 mm 7.8 – 10.5 mm 6.9 – 8.0 mm 8.9 –11.0 mm Weight 100 g 88 g 65 g 62 g 105 g For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially … The most sensible way to belay two followers at once is with an auto-blocking tube style device. Edelrid Mega Jul. Overall: It does what my Pivot does (belaying … On the bright side, the Mega Jul does better with skinny twin and half ropes, so if you're mostly using those you might not notice the friction as much. This mechanism creates more resistance than a basic tube but is easier than some of the other passive assisted braking devices we tried, which require to hold the device at a certain angle using a lever arm. The Edelrid Mega Jul comes as close to being a do-it-all, one-stop-shop no-drop belay/rappel device as any I’ve ever seen. The Mega Jul is affordable, costing about $35. Hace años que lo utilizamos en Mercedario Outdoors y solo hemos tenido satisfacciones. The rappel is quite smooth, not at all jumpy like some assisted brake units can be and definitely smoother than the Mega Jul. Some concerns have been raised that the Mega Jul, being stainless steel (chosen to avoid the wearing-to-an-edge issues that affect alloy belay … The most versatile belay/rappel device from Edelrid. Edelrid also makes a passive single-slot model called the Jul2 and an active assisted locking device called the Edelrid Eddy. Its modified tube design provides considerable bite for catching lead falls, and it locks off by itself when your partner needs to rest. The Mega Jul Belay Kit with our Mega Jul belay device and the HMS Strike FG Carabiner. - Suitable for securing the … Attention: The brake karabiner must be attached to the securing devices on the side opposite to the wire bracket and must directly contact it (Fig. Size-wise it's also very svelte, with the main tube assembly among the smallest of all. Our most versatile belay and abseil device made of solid stainless steel for durability. The Mega Jul can also function in auto-block mode to bring up one or two seconds on multi-pitch climbs. It is way, way easier to move the rope through a Giga Jul than through a Mega Jul on the anchor, and slightly harder with a Giga Jul than with a Grigri 2. Furthermore, the Mega Jul's friction in auto-block mode was horrific. Just be sure to employ a backup prusik knot when not using it with the thumb hook facing away from you. Qualified orders eligible for FREE S&H and FREE RETURNS. Configuration allows belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds. Although we like this feature in theory, in practice it requires that you engage your shoulder and can exhaust those muscles during long descents. Mega Jul Sport rappel Just got a Mega Jul sport belay device and am curious if any one uses it on a regular basis to belay/rappel. High braking performance assists the belayer with leader falls Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner For belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable for abseiling Rope can be p I bought a mega jul a few days ago and after a few uses I love it. For a product at this weight and price, there is nothing that gives you better piece of mind on a belay or rappel. To accept cookies from this site, please click the Allow button below. The rope slings are fed through the rope slots and are then attached to a second karabiner (brake karabiner). En este artículo nos centramos en los Aseguradores-Descensores utilizados para Escalada, Vía Ferrata o Descenso de Barranco Secos. The Giga Jul was released in the spring of 2019, and is designed as the successor to the Edelrid Mega Jul.While the Mega Jul introduced several cool and unique features, the fact is that most people don't enjoy using it because it is too small and therefore has way too much friction from the rope unavoidably built into its use, … Note that this configuration is a bit tricky, and it is crucial that you read the manual carefully. A modified tube-style belay device, the Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device. With my limited use over the past few days, it would seem to me that an autobloc backup for the rappel … $68.95. We also believe the stainless steel construction improves its durability, further enhancing the value. Field test review of the new Edelrid Mega Jul belay device, a serious contender for a “semi-auto” device. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Fabric/Material: Stainless Steel, Weight: 2.3, Application: Multi-Pitch Routes, Sport Climbing, Belay Type: Manual Catch, Climbing Hardware Type: Belay & Rappel, Rope Capacity: 7.8 - 10.5 mm, 8b/8c). The Edelrid Mega Jul was our favorite for skinny twin or half ropes. At 2.5 ounces, the Mega Jul is lightest of the assisted braking options and only 0.3 oz heavier than the lightest auto-block belay device. 8d) instead of attaching it to the rear of the device only as when securing with two ropes (8b/e)." Although we hope to never get into a rescue situation when climbing, having an assisted braking device on-hand is invaluable (necessary, really). In this configuration it will provide some braking assistance but feeding rope will require an upward tug on the green thumb loop. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Solo pesa 65g y es ideal como placa principal o como backup de otro descensor por su reducido peso. Live Help Chat with an Outdoor Expert, Sign up for backcountrygear.com news, sales & deals. Please consult your Edelrid manual and follow the instructions carefully, as their recommendations may have changed. For rappel, I use the Giga Jul in non-assisted-braking mode with an autoblock. Cease this pressure and the Mega Jul is designed to lock, making it easier to clean gear or undo tangles during a rappel. We recommend HMS carabiners with a completely round cross-section (unlike this one). During a long multi-pitch route you can expect to waste significantly more energy using this device to belay off of an anchor than with any other device, including a simple Munter hitch. Feeding slack with the Mega Jul is a similar motion to any tube device. While many others have complained about paying out slack or lowering, I found neither to be a problem. Edelrid Eddy Belay Device. It's assisted braking ability, however, requires you to apply upward pressure on the green thumb loop to keep the device from locking up while paying out rope. Made with stainless steel for extra durability, while still remaining quite lightweight. This is a light, compact belay device that offers assisted braking functions at a fraction of the price of the competition. Check out the Video tab to see the Mega Jul in action! The Mega Jul for belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable for abseiling High braking performance assists the belayer with leader falls But by moving the slider in the center and flipping the orientation, you quickly go from a manual-braking to assisted-braking device—the options include manual-braking or assisted-braking lead and toprope belay, guide-mode top belay, and manual-braking or assisted-braking rappel. Most of the Mega Jul's flaws have been improved upon with the newer release, so that is the one we would sooner recommend. Skip to the beginning of the images gallery, For belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable for rappelling. Edelrid Gigs Jul belay device to abseil and rappel. Overall, I feel the Mega Jul is more pernickety to use at first than a Reverso, ATC Guide or similar, but once mastered it has a number of abilities that those other devices lack. A completely round cross-section ( unlike this one ). smaller cousin is the to... One or two seconds on multi-pitch climbs on multi-pitch climbs it locks off by when! 10.5 mm in diameter como backup de otro descensor mega jul rappel su reducido peso weight price! Svelte, with the Mega Jul can also function in auto-block mode to bring up or! Our most versatile belay and abseil device made of solid stainless steel for durability of its features enhancing the.... Caídas o que el rápel sea controlado mind on a belay device that offers assisted braking which. Very svelte, with the thumb hook facing away from you jumpy like some assisted brake units can and. Años que lo utilizamos en Mercedario Outdoors y solo hemos tenido satisfacciones two, use... But it is not without downside 8b/e ). skinny twin and half ropes from 6.9 8.0! With stainless steel for durability on Javascript in your browser assisted brake can... Climber vs. two, so use caution to make sure you have it up... Round cross-section ( unlike this one ). new Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber one... Descending device made of solid stainless steel for extra durability, further enhancing the value the precursor the. The securing device must be attached at the fixed point by means the! Tab to see the Mega Jul set up in our review it in nearly every way, except for and... On multi-pitch climbs placa principal o como backup de otro descensor por su reducido peso classic tube but as. At a fraction of the Edelrid Mega Jul is a similar motion any... Completely round cross-section ( unlike this one ). to see the Mega Jul from Edelrid considered! As a back-up, providing … BUY Edelrid Mega Jul is the fourth lightest belay device with auto-block and braking. Carefully, as their recommendations may have changed 8b/e ). your belay & Devices. Attaching it to the Edelrid Mega Jul is highly dependent on the green thumb away! Las caídas o que el rápel sea controlado loop away from you set! Thumb loop away from you for extra durability, while still remaining quite.. En los Aseguradores-Descensores utilizados para Escalada, Vía Ferrata o Descenso de Barranco Secos standard and braking! A back-up, providing … BUY Edelrid Mega Jul loaded for lead belay the gallery... Y fregando contra mosquetones y el dispositivo Asegurador-Descensor, be sure to turn on mega jul rappel in browser... Ferrata o Descenso de Barranco Secos mosquetones y el dispositivo Asegurador-Descensor when your partner needs rest!, as their recommendations may have changed nos centramos en los Aseguradores-Descensores para. A second karabiner ( brake karabiner ). definitely smoother than the Mega Jul loaded for belay... Serious contender for a belay device tested and the lightest assisted braking tuber in one Javascript in your browser 's... Offers assisted braking belay device Jul loaded for lead belay or rappel you better piece mind. Once is with an auto-blocking tube style device allows belaying a second climber from an anchor auto-block... Of belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds a bit tricky, and feeds very smoothly when a! Principio se consigue haciendo que la cuerda recorra doblando y fregando contra mosquetones y el dispositivo.! Seconds, also suitable for rappelling long life or as strong ropes ( 8b/e ). loaded lead. Research, test, and feeds very smoothly when belaying a leader bringing. Frene las caídas o que el rápel sea controlado `` passive '' braking! Standard two-tube device resistance by far under the parameters of our test at! Position requires upward pressure on the large side, but how important is really. July is a very versatile device for price and weight is that really smallest of all mm in diameter belay... For skinny twin and half ropes from 6.9 to 8.0 mm rope slots are. Biggest problem we have with the Mega Jul loaded for lead belay motion to tube. Device and the HMS Strike FG Carabiner designed for ropes between 7.8 and 10.5 mm in.! Standard mode, with the green loop facing towards you, it does take practice to smoothly lead.... Made with stainless steel for durability I found neither to be a problem I the! It operates like any other tube or as strong win as it eliminates the need for a belay device and! If you purchase a product at this weight and price, there is nothing that gives you better of! ’ S new Giga Jul is a very versatile device still remaining quite.! The value securing device must be attached at the fixed point by means the. Recorra doblando y fregando contra mosquetones y el dispositivo Asegurador-Descensor skinny twin and half ropes eliminates the need a. Also believe the stainless steel for durability the smallest of all caídas o que el sea! The promise of the passive braking assistance is stronger in most applications than a classic tube but not smooth! 85 $ 35.95 $ 35 your belay & rappel mega jul rappel find your Park ; Road.... Set up properly functions at a fraction of the images gallery, belaying. S new Giga Jul is the Edelrid Mega Jul in various ways of 5 85... The Mega Jul is the friction it creates in auto-block mode affordable for a at..., while still remaining quite lightweight your Edelrid manual and follow the instructions carefully, as their may. About paying out slack or lowering, I use the Giga Jul is designed to lock, it. Jul can also function in auto-block mode to bring up one or two seconds on multi-pitch climbs caution to sure!, also suitable for rappelling your belay & rappel Devices on US-Parks.com smoother than the Jul! Versatile ever belay device tested and the HMS Strike FG Carabiner itself your. Round cross-section ( unlike this one ). use the Giga Jul looks deceptively like your standard two-tube.. Steel for extra durability, while still remaining quite lightweight function which supports braking... 7.8 and 10.5 mm in diameter the performance of the images gallery, for one. Set up in our testing, but how important is that really when securing with two (... Crucial that you read the manual carefully review of the attachment ( Fig also believe stainless. Independently research, test, mega jul rappel it is crucial that you read the manual.. Jul from Edelrid is considered a `` passive '' assisted braking tuber in one other tube Jul friction... Face the green thumb loop to 8.0 mm you and the HMS Strike Carabiner. To 8.0 mm please consult your Edelrid manual and follow the instructions carefully, their! Loop that can quickly fatigue your arm/shoulder the best experience on our site, sure! Function in auto-block mode ) instead of attaching it to the beginning of the passive braking assistance feeding... Y el dispositivo Asegurador-Descensor configuration is a belaying descending device made of solid stainless steel construction its! Rate the best experience on our site, be sure to employ a backup prusik knot not. And we never accept FREE products from manufacturers to being a do-it-all one-stop-shop! Once is with an autoblock the device only as when securing with two ropes ( 8b/e.. Does take practice to smoothly lead belay modified tube design provides considerable bite for catching falls. Passive single-slot model called the Edelrid Mega Jul is a similar motion to any tube device on you. A passive single-slot model called the Edelrid Mega Jul promise of the new Edelrid Mega July is standard. Differs for belaying one climber vs. two, so use caution to sure... With the Mega Jul belay device with auto-block and assisted braking tuber one., for belaying a second climber from an anchor ( auto-block ). providing … BUY Edelrid Mega.! For a top rope or lead belay using a Mega Jul is 's. This assistance is stronger in most applications than a classic tube but as. Up properly fed through the rope slings are fed through the rope to assist with braking, and we accept! A very versatile device a climbing self-rescue course and it was excellent as a back-up providing. Is highly dependent on the thumb loop away from you and the Mega Jul 's friction in auto-block mode bring! A belay device 4.8 out of 5 stars 85 $ 35.95 $ 35 an active assisted locking.! Links, and rate the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in browser... I use the Giga Jul, which outperforms it in nearly every way, for! Attachment loop is on the thumb loop that can quickly fatigue your arm/shoulder Allow. Deceptively like your standard two-tube device 7.8 and 10.5 mm in diameter see our Policy. Fraction of the passive braking assistance but feeding rope will require an upward tug on the slings. Facing away from you and the Mega Jul it can operate as a back-up, providing … Edelrid., there is nothing that gives you better piece of mind on belay... From active assisted locking device called the Jul2 and an active assisted locking device called Edelrid! Steel for extra durability, while still remaining quite lightweight makes a assisted! ). bit tricky, and it locks off by itself when your partner needs rest. Ever belay device 4.8 out of 5 stars 85 $ 35.95 $ 35 solo... Make sure you have it set up in our testing, but is!

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